La Pastizza, Ustica: exploring a volcanic cave and wall

La Pastizza, also known as Grotta della Pastizza, is a volcanic coastal site located just outside Ustica’s harbour, named for the small emergent rock whose shape resembles a Sicilian pastry. The site is defined by an emergent cave entrance, accessible from the surface, leading into a complex system of interconnected cavities. This unique geology, sculpted by Ustica's volcanic past, offers a distinct atmosphere from the moment you begin your descent, with natural light playing across the entrance.

The dive profile at La Pastizza typically starts with a shallow plateau around 7 to 8 metres. From here, a vertical wall drops towards depths of 18 to 20 metres and beyond, reaching a maximum of 25 metres. This wall is richly covered in sponges and other encrusting life, providing a vibrant backdrop to the volcanic rock formations. The transition from the open wall to the cave entrance offers a shift in environment, inviting a change in focus from the expansive to the intricate.

Inside the cave system, the dive becomes a contemplative journey through natural tunnels. The water often maintains a unique clarity, accentuating the subtle colours of the rock and the life that clings to its surfaces. This environment rewards careful buoyancy control and a keen eye for detail, as you navigate through the various chambers. It's a space where marine life adapts to sheltered conditions, offering a different perspective on the island's underwater ecosystem.

A notable feature within the cave system is the presence of two air chambers above sea level. One of these chambers houses a statue of San Bartolicchio, or Saint Bartholomew, the patron saint of Ustica. This blend of natural wonder and local cultural significance adds another layer to the experience, making the cave more than just a geological formation. The cave system is part of a larger complex, sometimes referred to as the Academia complex, highlighting its significance in the local dive landscape.

The marine life encountered at La Pastizza is diverse, reflecting both the open wall and the sheltered cave environments. Along the wall, you can expect to see dusky groupers, brown groupers, and amberjacks moving in the blue. Closer to the rock, look for seabream, moray eels, and conger eels tucked into crevices. The encrusting life on the wall provides habitat for smaller creatures, including various species of shrimp and nudibranchs, adding colour and detail to the dive.

Within the cave and its immediate surroundings, the focus shifts to species adapted to more sheltered conditions. Pony pipefish and pipefish can be found among the rocks, while spider crabs and sleeper lobsters inhabit the nooks and crannies. Cuttlefish and octopus are also common sightings, often camouflaged against the volcanic rock. The site is also known for nocturnal invertebrates like Alicia mirabilis, making it a popular choice for night dives.

Visibility at La Pastizza is generally excellent, enhancing the perception of the cave's dimensions and the details of the wall. The site is well-sheltered, with no significant current reported, which contributes to its accessibility and the calm conditions within the cave. This allows for a relaxed pace, giving you ample time to observe the unique geological formations and the marine inhabitants without the added challenge of strong water movement.