Zoi Retreat Hotel Zanzibar

Small, beachfront and built around a simple idea of retreat, this is the sort of place where you can move between your room, the pool, the restaurant and the sand without turning the afternoon into an expedition. The shaded outdoor areas add plenty of places to sit, read or let the day dry off properly.

Zanzibar Retreat Hotel suits divers who want the sea close, but do not want every waking hour organised around an activity. Couples have ocean-facing rooms and private balconies to choose from, while families have larger accommodation designed for sharing. Information is available in English, French and German, with the hotel set up for guests from those language groups.

You are in Matemwe, a fishing village on Zanzibar’s north-eastern coast, rather than in Zanzibar City. The hotel sits directly on Matemwe Beach, a white coral beach suited to swimming at high tide and long walks when you need to stretch your legs after a day in the water.

The setting remains properly local: traditional fishing boats work the horizon, while palm trees, coconut trees and sandy paths frame the village. Furaha Local Restaurant is about 300 metres away, Garden Bob Swahili Restaurant about 550 metres, and Bin Jabir Restaurant about 0.7 miles. The airport is Abeid Amani Karume International Airport, about 24 miles away and roughly 60 minutes by car.

For two, the ocean-view rooms are the natural choice if the view matters more than simply having somewhere to sleep. Two rooms have private balconies overlooking the ocean; most of the others open onto a large wooden veranda with outdoor furniture. That gives you somewhere to sit with a drink or a book without balancing on the edge of the bed.

Families can look at the Two Bedroom Family Room or the Superior Family Room with Garden View. The two-bedroom arrangement makes more sense than trying to squeeze everyone into a standard double, particularly when wet towels, bags and the general debris of a diving holiday start reproducing overnight. The Two-Bedroom House and the villa with private pool are aimed at larger groups and families who need their own space.

All rooms have air conditioning and en-suite bathrooms with showers. Some rooms also have a seating area, while a hairdryer is available on request. Daily housekeeping keeps the practical side moving, and WiFi is available throughout the hotel. Most rooms sit close to the restaurant, bar and pool, so reaching breakfast does not require a full briefing and a compass.

Theros Restaurant serves meals on a large shaded veranda overlooking the beach. The cooking brings together European-inspired dishes with Tanzanian and Zanzibari food, using the sort of mixed approach that works well when one person wants something familiar and another wants to stay firmly on the island.

Breakfast is continental and buffet-style. Special-diet menus can be arranged on request, and children’s meals are available. Packed lunches are also available, useful when your day starts before the table is ready or when an excursion takes you away from Matemwe.

There is one bar, The Bar, beside the restaurant. It covers cocktails, mocktails, coffee, soft drinks, beer and wine, with drinks served at the bar, by the pool or in the relaxed seating areas. Happy hour is part of the offering. After diving, the practical order of business is therefore straightforward: shower, food, then something cold within walking distance of your chair.

The outdoor pool sits a few steps from both the beach and the rooms, giving you an easier option when the tide is not playing along. There are sun loungers, beach chairs, pool and beach towels, a sun terrace, a garden and shaded seating areas. The villa has its own large private swimming pool.

The spa offers massages and facial treatments, which is about as much convincing as most divers need after several days carrying cylinders around. If you want to keep moving, the hotel can arrange walking tours, bicycle hire, cooking classes and local excursions. Darts, board games and puzzles cover the slower end of the scale.

For days away from the hotel, the concierge can help organise island experiences including Stone Town, spice tours, sunset cruises, Prison Island, Chumbe Island Coral Park, Nakupenda Island and a one-day safari in Mikumi National Park. Turtle conservation sites, wildlife observation and cultural excursions are also part of the programme, alongside sea safaris and kitesurfing.

Arrival is between 14:00 and 22:00, and departure between 08:00 and 11:00. You need to give the hotel your expected arrival time in advance, particularly if your flight lands late or your transfer runs on island time. Private check-in and check-out, express check-in and check-out, luggage storage, a tour desk and currency exchange are available.

An airport shuttle can be arranged on request. The hotel also offers car hire, free private parking and concierge assistance, while a laundry service and ironing service are available. A laptop safe is provided, and packed lunches can be arranged for days spent away from the restaurant.

Free WiFi covers the hotel, and the property is wheelchair accessible. The accommodation welcomes children of any age; cots can be requested, while extra beds are not available. Cash and credit-card payment options are listed. Pets are not allowed.

A large solar-panel system supplies part of the hotel’s energy, a sensible fit for a property facing the tropical sun every day. The hotel also tackles the familiar plastic-bottle problem in a practical way rather than with a slogan.

Large bottles and carafes replace individual plastic water bottles, and drinking water is available with meals. You can refill your own bottle at the water station, keeping one more disposable container out of the luggage pile and away from the beach.