The Champs

A small five-room boutique hotel on the hillside at Picard, Hotel The Champs is the sort of base that suits divers who want a proper meal, a view and a quiet place to put their feet up rather than a large resort with a timetable for everything. English and French are spoken by the hotel team, so you can discuss arrivals, dinner or the day ahead without resorting to hand signals worthy of a poor night dive briefing.

The atmosphere is personal and uncomplicated. You have a pool terrace, a panoramic restaurant, gardens and balconies facing towards the sea or the surrounding landscape. The hotel welcomes families, although the room arrangements matter: children aged 3 to 16 can stay in the Superior XL rooms, while four adults are better accommodated in two rooms.

You are in Picard, Portsmouth, Dominica, on a hill close to the sea. Portsmouth is about 1.5 miles away, while Coconut Beach is an eight-minute walk from the hotel. That gives you a beach within reach without putting the hotel directly on the sand; bring sensible footwear for the slope and keep the post-swim stroll in mind when planning your day.

The setting is built around height and outlook. The property has a 270-degree panoramic view towards the ocean, with sea and mountain views from the accommodation and outdoor areas. Purple Turtle Beach is about 2.5 miles away by car, and Cabrits National Park is 3 miles from the hotel, giving you straightforward options for a beach stop or a land-based outing between dives.

Douglas-Charles Airport is around 55 minutes away by car. The hotel also sits about 55 minutes from Roseau ferry terminal, making the arrival route relevant if you are combining Dominica with another island.

The rooms are designed for two in their standard arrangements, with larger choices for a third guest. If you are travelling as a couple and want the largest bed, the King Room and Superior King Room are the obvious places to look; the latter also adds a sofa bed, although its bathroom arrangement differs from the other options. For three guests, the Superior Double Room is the practical choice, with the extra sleeping space already built in rather than improvised around a second bed.

Air conditioning and a ceiling fan give you two ways to cool down after a hot, salt-heavy day. Every room has a refrigerator and coffee-making facilities, useful for keeping water cold and making the first cup before anyone starts discussing fins, currents or whose mask leaked. A television, free Wi-Fi, wardrobe, clothes rack and a private bathroom cover the essentials without turning the room into a gadget showroom.

Balconies or terraces, together with views towards the sea, garden, pool or mountains, give you somewhere to sit without having to go downstairs. The rooms are non-smoking, daily housekeeping is available, and some accommodation has a private entrance. Upper floors are reached by stairs only, worth factoring in if knees and luggage are no longer on speaking terms.

The Champs Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with the restaurant set high on the hill and opening towards the ocean. Breakfast is included and prepared to order, with fresh local fruit juices, homemade bread, eggs, pancakes and waffles. It is a useful start before a morning departure, particularly if you prefer food made when you ask for it rather than something that has been waiting under a heat lamp since dawn.

Lunch is available by reservation, while dinner brings daily homemade variations from the kitchen. The cooking is international, with local ingredients and weekly vegetarian choices. Friday is pizza night, with homemade pizzas, and Saturday brings a gastronomic menu prepared by Chef Francis. The restaurant is also home to Chef Kevin Gregoire, listed as the new chef, so the kitchen is not relying on one fixed menu for every evening.

There is one bar, serving homemade tropical cocktails, classic cocktails, local Kubuli beer, wine and champagne. You can eat in the restaurant, on the leisure terrace, on the pool terrace or on your balcony; a romantic dinner beside the pool is also available. Room service operates on limited hours, so plan your post-dive hunger rather than assuming the kitchen will be waiting at any hour.

The outdoor pool is the natural place to spend a non-diving afternoon, with a broad pool terrace, sun loungers and views that carry the day towards sunset. There is also a hot tub, with a further jacuzzi planned, and the terrace gives you somewhere to sit with a drink without having to make a formal commitment to evening plans.

For a slower recovery, massages can be arranged in your room, while yoga takes place on the terrace, including sunset classes. Spa facilities and beauty treatments cover massages, body treatments, facials, manicures and pedicures. In other words, the hotel can deal with the consequences of a long day in the water, even if it cannot persuade your shoulders that carrying a full kit bag was a good idea.

Away from the hotel, the concierge and tour desk can help organise the island’s land-based options. These include guided hikes, horseback riding, whale watching, fishing, snorkelling, canoeing and visits to Fort Shirley, Cabrits National Park, Indian River and local villages. River tubing, canyoning, waterfalls, sulphur springs, lakes, volcanic sites and the local market in Portsmouth round out the choices when you want a day above water.

Arrival is handled between 14:00 and 21:00, and you need to tell the hotel your expected arrival time. Check-out runs from 07:30 to 11:30. The minimum age for check-in is 18, and children of any age are welcome under the hotel’s room and bedding arrangements. Pets are not allowed, and the property is non-smoking throughout.

An airport shuttle service is available, and transfers can also be arranged from the ferry terminal. Car hire is available, with the hotel recommending that a rental car be delivered to the property and that you arrange collection from the airport or ferry terminal. Free parking is available on site without reservation, which is handy if your island plans involve more than the road between the hotel and the beach.

Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel. You also have luggage storage, concierge assistance, a tour desk, private check-in and check-out, laundry and a doctor on request. English and French are spoken by the team. The hotel’s current shuttle arrangements should be checked when you book, particularly if your arrival plans depend on a transfer.

The hotel grows fruit and vegetables in its own garden, putting some of the ingredients used at the table within the property itself. That fits the wider character of Dominica, an island known for its natural environment, while keeping the point practical rather than turning dinner into a lecture on sustainability.

Fresh local ingredients are used in the restaurant, where food is prepared to order. For you, that means the garden and the kitchen are connected in a fairly direct way: produce is grown on site, and the rest of the meal is built around fresh preparation rather than a standardised buffet.