The Retreat Bay of Islands

Set on a peninsula covered in native vegetation, The Retreat Bay of Islands offers self-contained accommodation rather than the bustle of a large hotel. You come here for the bay views, the space in your apartment and a discreet setting away from the main road, where an evening can amount to a barbecue, a sunset and a close look at a few New Zealand birds.

The studios and apartments are designed for spending time in, not merely sleeping between excursions. With a private balcony, separate living room, kitchen and dining area, you can come back, put your things down and settle into the evening without heading straight out again. The atmosphere is simple and informal, with a DVD library, board games and the wide landscapes of Northland providing the backdrop.

You will find the property in Paihia, in the Bay of Islands, 2 km south of the town centre and above Te Haumi Beach. State Highway 11 runs nearby, but the property sits back from it on a wooded peninsula. From your accommodation, the bay and beach dominate the view; Paihia centre is close enough for you to reach its restaurants and activities by car.

Paihia Beach is 2 km away, and Te Ti Bay Beach is 3 km away. For eating out, Nikau Restaurant, Peppercorn Restaurant and Tipsy Oyster are all around 2 km away. The Waitangi Treaty Grounds are 5 km away, Haruru Falls 9 km and Opua Forest 8 km. The coastal track between Opua and Paihia starts directly from the property, giving you a way to get out on foot without turning a walk into an expedition.

Your main choice comes down to how you like to organise a diving holiday. For two people, a retro studio with sea views works if you like everything close at hand; the open-plan studio gives you more room around the bed, while the one-bedroom apartments keep the sleeping area clearly separate from the living room. For a family or two couples, the two-bedroom apartments provide a proper layout for a shared stay rather than simply lining up more beds.

Every unit has a private balcony and sea views, along with a separate living room, sofa, armchairs and flat-screen television. The kitchen lets you prepare a straightforward meal, with hobs, microwave oven, toaster, crockery and refrigerator provided. If you come back hungry, you have a table and the means to heat something up; if you are merely tired, the sofa is ready.

For sleeping, heating, a fan and electric blankets let you adjust the comfort to suit the season. North-facing windows give the day its own rhythm, while the private bathroom with shower, towels and hairdryer removes the logistics of camping. Wi-Fi is free in the rooms, and the DVD player supplements satellite television and streaming services for evenings when the bay has already held your attention long enough.

Here, meals take place in your apartment. There is no restaurant or bar on site, and breakfast is not provided. The equipped kitchen, dining table and refrigerator do, however, let you set your own timetable: coffee when you want it, a quick meal after diving or dinner prepared without watching the clock.

Outside, shared barbecue facilities and a fish smoker let you cook outdoors. An outdoor dining area, garden furniture, terrace and picnic area extend the evening beyond your walls. Grocery deliveries are also available; in an apartment, that can save you a resupply trip when you would rather watch the light fade over the bay.

The Opua-Paihia coastal track is accessible directly from the property. You can set off along the bay, walk towards Paihia or simply stay on your balcony with the view. Boat trips, sailing, fishing and kayaking are among the activities available in the area; diving and hiking are also available away from the property.

For a day on land, Waitangi Mountain Bike Park and the Twin Coast cycleways offer more energetic options, while the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, Russell, Kawiti glow-worm caves, Kerikeri wineries and Ngawha hot springs take you in entirely different directions. A golf course is nearby, and wildlife watching is particularly easy here: native birds visit the vegetation around the accommodation.

When your energy runs low, spa wellness packages and board games give you something to do without imposing organised entertainment. The laundry service can also be useful on a touring holiday, particularly if you are combining boat trips with coastal walks.

From Auckland, allow about three hours to drive north. Bay of Islands Airport is approximately 25 km away, or around 22 minutes by car. Approaching from the south, look for the property sign on the hill above Te Haumi Beach, after the Opua turn-off; access then continues along a short private road to the reception office. Private, secure parking is available on site for both cars and boats.

Check-in is from 3 pm to 8 pm, and check-out is from 10 am to 11 am. Tell the property your arrival time, particularly if you expect to arrive outside these hours; photo ID and a bank card are required at check-in. Luggage storage, a tour information and booking desk, and laundry facilities are also available.

The property is non-smoking and parties are not permitted. Quiet hours run from 8 pm to 10 am, which suits a place where the view provides the evening's entertainment. Children of all ages are welcome, and a babysitting service is available.