Diving Albany: kelp, granite walls and a warship wreck

Albany is a cold-water Australian destination built around King George Sound, where granite islands, kelp-covered rock and a deliberately sunk warship share the itinerary. The ex-HMAS Perth II is the obvious focal point, but it is not the whole story: reefs, walls, caves and overhangs provide alternatives when the wreck is unsuitable. It works particularly well as a shore-based holiday, combining several boat days with coastal scenery, national parks and whale watching for non-divers.

Most diving is by boat from Albany harbour, heading towards the islands and reefs of King George Sound. Underwater, expect granite walls, drop-offs, overhangs, caves and kelp rather than tropical coral gardens. The ex-HMAS Perth II rests to roughly 35–36 metres, its 133-metre hull offering more than one sensible dive and possible penetrations for properly trained wreck divers. Currents are variable, so a route that feels straightforward on one site may involve a downcurrent or become a drift dive elsewhere. Visibility is commonly around 10 to 25 metres, shaped by swell, weather and coastal conditions. Allow time for a proper safety stop and listen carefully to the day's site briefing, particularly around exposed island terrain and rock passages.

Albany's wildlife belongs to cooler southern waters. Yellowtail and kingfish are regular encounters around the reefs and the ex-HMAS Perth II, while carpet sharks add a distinctly Australian detail to the scene. Kelp, sponges and coral growth cover parts of the rocky ground and the wreck, turning the ship into habitat rather than a bare metal attraction. Seals and sea lions may appear at any time, although encounters are occasional rather than guaranteed. Humpback whales and southern right whales pass from June to early November, making that period especially appealing for a trip that combines diving with watching wildlife from the coast. Underwater, the emphasis is on temperate fish life, structure and texture.

December to April is generally the most practical period for diving Albany. Summer and early autumn tend to provide the better combination of visibility and workable boat conditions, with opportunities to reach the islands and the ex-HMAS Perth II more consistently. The area is still exposed to swell and changing weather, so a good month does not remove the need for spare days. June to early November brings regular whale activity from the coast, but winter and early spring are more often associated with difficult coastal conditions. Choose the season according to the balance wanted: more dependable diving in summer, or whales and wilder shore weather outside it.

There are sites for different levels, but Albany is not a place to treat every dive as routine Open Water training. The ex-HMAS Perth II reaches 35–36 metres and involves wreck planning, with penetrations requiring suitable training and experience. Advanced Open Water or an equivalent qualification is useful for the deeper sections, while a Wreck Diver qualification gives a better basis for exploring the ship. Less experienced divers should use a guide and stay with the simpler island or coastal options when conditions are unsettled.

From London Heathrow, Gatwick or Manchester, the journey to Albany normally involves international connections followed by a domestic flight from Perth to Albany. The alternative is to travel overland from Perth, allowing about five hours by road. There is no ferry journey to reach Albany itself. Once in town, the diving starts from the harbour, with the islands and ex-HMAS Perth II reached by boat. Accommodation is spread around the Albany area, so a hire car or taxi is generally more useful than relying on walking between where you stay, the harbour and the dive departure point. Build the trip around the onward connection rather than assuming every boat departure will be interchangeable.

Keep more than one boat day available. A trip organised around a single attempt at the ex-HMAS Perth II can unravel if the permit, depth, swell or local conditions make the wreck unsuitable, whereas King George Sound offers other routes. Treat the warship as a separate project, not as an ordinary Open Water dive: its 133 metres cannot sensibly be covered in one descent, and penetrations need the right qualification, equipment and guide. Ask about the day's current on island sites and whether a passage or cave is exposed before committing to it. Bring a cold-water configuration that also suits deeper wreck work, rather than packing only for a shallow coastal dive. If the wreck is off the plan, use the local visitor information service for current maps and suggestions for more sheltered sites. Do not assume the wreck permit authorises diving everywhere else in the region.

Plan Albany as a five- to seven-day land-based stay, leaving room to move boat days around the weather. A sensible pattern is to combine the ex-HMAS Perth II with island and reef outings, then keep coastal walks and viewpoints for days when the sea prevents a departure. National parks, granite cliffs, beaches and King George Sound give non-divers plenty to do, while whale watching adds a strong reason to include the winter and early spring period.