Los Cancajos, La Palma: shore diving in a protected bay

Los Cancajos is not a single reef but a collection of distinct underwater sectors contained within a protected bay. Because it is a multi-site area, the topography changes significantly as you move along the coastline. You can transition from shallow, sandy areas suitable for training to much more complex environments like the narrow canyon or the rocky outcrops of La Garra. This diversity allows you to choose a profile that matches your experience level and what you want to see during the dive.

The access is straightforward via shore entry, using either the sandy beach or the stone beach depending on which sector you are targeting. The house reef is located within walking distance of the local dive centres, making it an efficient site for quick sessions. For those looking for more depth, the terrain drops away into deeper sections where the seabed reaches 50 metres. You will find that the layout requires some navigation to move between the different named zones effectively.

One of the more technical aspects of the site is the presence of a submerged aircraft wing located at approximately 30 metres. Reaching this feature requires a controlled descent and a solid understanding of your buoyancy, as it sits in a deeper zone of the bay. The wing provides a point of interest for those comfortable with depth, offering a different perspective than the shallower coral bay. It is a specific landmark that distinguishes this area from a standard reef walk.

The topography includes a well-defined shallow canyon that provides a different hydrodynamic environment than the open bay. Entering this canyon can change the way you feel the water movement and provides a more structured landscape to explore. The walls of the canyon often host different life than the flat sandy patches found elsewhere. Exploring these vertical transitions helps you understand the varied micro-habitats present in the Los Cancajos area.

The La Garra rock formation serves as another major landmark, offering a more rugged and complex structure for divers to navigate. This rocky area creates various crevices and overhangs that are central to the local ecosystem. As you swim along these formations, you can observe how the terrain influences the presence of resident species. The complexity of the rocks makes it a rewarding area for those who enjoy searching for life within the structure.

Water movement in the bay is generally light, making it a reliable site for those working on their buoyancy or finishing certifications. The breakwaters provide an additional layer of protection against Atlantic swell, especially when the trade winds affect the east coast of La Palma. While the bay is protected, you should still be aware that conditions can change based on the season and wind direction. Generally, the calm nature of the bay makes it one of the more accessible shore dives in the region.

Visibility at Los Cancajos is consistently good, typically ranging between 20 and 25 metres. This clarity allows you to see the transitions between the different sectors from a distance, which helps with underwater navigation. High visibility also makes it easier to spot the deeper features, such as the aircraft wing or the canyon walls, even if you are staying in the shallower zones. This clarity is a major advantage for both photography and general site orientation.

The resident fauna is well-distributed across the different depths and terrains of the bay. You will frequently encounter ornate wrasse and various species of bream moving through the rocky sections. Moray eels are also present, often found sheltering within the crevices of the La Garra rocks or the canyon walls. Observing these species requires a slow, observant approach to avoid startling them into the deeper parts of the reef.