Passe de Tumakohua, Fakarava Sud: drifting with sharks

Passe de Tumakohua, also known as Passe Sud or Tetamanu, is an intimate gateway to the Fakarava lagoon, located near the old village of Tetamanu in Fakarava's southern atoll. Reaching this site requires a boat journey of just over an hour, or up to 1h30, from your starting point, typically as part of a full-day excursion that often includes two dives and a meal in the historic Tetamanu village. This narrow pass, only 200 metres wide, funnels an extraordinary volume of life through its waters, making it a vibrant pulse of the atoll.

The character of the dive is defined by the current, which is notably calmer and generally less assertive than in Fakarava's northern pass, Garuae. This allows for a more serene and relaxed drift experience, making it an ideal location for divers of all experience levels. While an incoming current is preferable for an effortless drift, the pass is also navigable on a falling tide, offering a different yet equally rewarding perspective. The moderated current carries you along, allowing for comfortable observation of the intricate coral structures and the myriad of reef fish that call this channel home.

Below the surface, the pass reveals a thriving community, most famously its grey shark wall. An estimated 700 grey reef sharks (Carcharhinus amblyrhynchos) make their home here, a density considered among the highest globally. These sharks are a constant presence, circling and patrolling the channel, creating an awe-inspiring spectacle. Alongside these apex predators, schools of barracudas (Sphyraenidae) glide in formation, and powerful tuna (Thunnus) cut through the currents. Keep a keen eye out for the immense Napoleon wrasse (Cheilinus undulatus), often seen navigating the reef structures, and reef perches (Plectropomus) adding bursts of colour.

Beyond the dramatic shark encounters, the pass is home to a magnificent coral garden, an intricate tapestry of vibrant hard and soft corals. These formations create a complex habitat, pulsating with a myriad of colourful fish. You'll find yourself gliding through alleys of coral, observing the smaller, more resident species. Light filters through the relatively shallower waters, illuminating the vivid hues of the reef and enhancing visibility. The pass acts as a conduit for a continuous flow of nutrients, fostering an extraordinary diversity of animal and plant life. Encounters with pelagic species are common, providing moments of awe as the larger inhabitants of the open ocean pass through the narrow channel.

Tumakohua also holds a unique seasonal secret: between the full moons of June and July, the pass becomes a critical reproduction ground for marbled groupers (Epinephelus fuscoguttatus). This specific period offers a rare opportunity to witness this natural phenomenon, adding another layer of depth and interest to an already rich dive experience. The overall dive profile allows for extended exploration, combining the exhilarating drift through the pass with detailed observation of the coral garden's intricate beauty.